Black Suits

Black is a classic and very formal color for men’s suits. One of the reasons why black is so popular is that the black suit can be worn with shirts and accessories of almost any color; it can also look very crisp and sharp. Black suits are always in fashion and indicate the height of…

Menswear in the Victorian era

The period of Queen Victoria’s reign from 1837 to 1901 saw massive changes in British society – not least in men’s wear. In the Victorian era frock coats became quite popular, followed towards the end of Victoria’s reign by the development of the morning coat. The frock coat was the staple garment to be worn…

Menswear in the Regency era

The Regency period (1812-1820) was the time when King George III was found unfit to run the country, and his son, the Prince of Wales, ruled as Prince Regent. Although quite brief, this period was highly influential in terms of style – and in particular the evolution of men’s fashion during the Regency was crucial…

Menswear in the Post-war era

After WWII, the styling of men’s suit led to simplified designs with the lapel size minimized and a straighter cut for the coat. In the mid 1930s, there had already been a total change in terms of men’s fashion – the fit of men’s suits started to get looser, men’s trousers were increasingly tapered towards…

Half Canvas Linings

Most jackets for men’s suits have an interlining between the outer cloth of the jacket and its inner lining. Traditionally the interlining was made from horsehair canvas which was stitched into place; more economical alternatives developed in the form of a glued interlining. A half canvased jacket uses both techniques – a sewn-in canvas piece…

Jackets

The jacket of a man’s suit is the most dominating component of a suit, and it should be worn to suit the occasion or event you are attending. The basic requirement of the jacket is that it should have well-made shoulders, resting on the perfect spot. The sleeve should end over the wearer’s wrist, allowing…

Jackets Without Vents

A vent is a slit in the rear of a man’s suit jacket, and traditionally a suit jacket had one or two. Ventless jackets were initially conceived by Italian designers as a way of displaying a sharp, unbroken silhouette. As with much cutting-edge fashion, the ventless jacket has today become a standard option for the…

Jetted Pockets

A jetted or “besom” pocket is the basic pocket style for men’s suits – it has the appearance of a narrow horizontal slit in the outside of the jacket that accesses a lined pocket inserted between the linings and the outer material. A small strip of fabric tapes the top and bottom of the slit…

Lapels

Lapels are the folded coverings of cloth on the front part of the jacket of men’s suits. Generally, lapels are designed by folding the front edges of the jacket and then sewing them to the collar. Lapels normally come with a buttonhole on the left side designed to hold a boutonniere or a flower; this…

Notched Lapels

The notched lapel (also known as the step collar or the step lapel) is perfect for single-breasted men’s suits. The notch is V or an arrowhead shape basically pointing in towards the notch on the opposite lapel; it’s a versatile and quite conservative style, while the other two lapel styles – peak and shawl –…