Getting the Gorge Right

Do you know what it takes to create the perfectly balanced suit?

To a connoisseur, the million and one details that go into the construction of a quality bespoke men’s suit are as important as every spark plug, crankshaft, cylinder head and strut on a Ferrari. Terms such as break, shirring, gorge and vents aren’t only for tailors. Today’s modern executive needs a breadth as well as a depth of knowledge in his chosen field or profession and also, an ability to dress the part.

 

Gorge is one of the most important details a man needs to know when ordering a bespoke men’s suit.

The gorge is the point where the collar of the jacket meets the lapel. Gorge and gorge depth are essential to determining the suit jacket’s balance and should be considered along with button stance, lapel length and width.

In recent years, trends have seen gorges go higher from just above the chest to just below the shoulders.

Higher gorges are popular with Italian and especially Neapolitan tailoring. Higher gorges can be used to create the illusion of a longer torso, especially if the wearer is on the shorter side.

But gorges cannot be raised alone and should be accompanied with an adjusted buttoning stance (the location of the buttons on the jacket front). Adjusting the buttoning stance, however, requires that you also consider the jacket length as well.

To get all these details right and in aesthetically pleasing balance with one another, talk with a bespoke advisor today and let Knot Standard get your gorge.