Handkerchiefs

The handkerchief is basically no more than a personal cloth used by both men and women. It is usually square, always hemmed, and usually carried in the pocket.

For some time it has been one of the most vital accessories available to people for personal hygiene. You can use it to blow your nose, remove sweat from your brow, or just wipe your hands.

Disposable paper handkerchiefs and wipes are taking over those utilitarian functions and can claim to be hygienically superior. The handkerchief still has a place for emergency use, however.

The handkerchief has also developed a cosmetic function, especially for men’s suits and dinner jackets. When the hanky is used for this purpose, it is known as a pocket square. Such handkerchiefs are markedly different from the regular white handkerchief that most men use for utilitarian purposes, typically being made of finer materials and seeing no usage other than as a decorative accessory in a men’s suit .

Pocket squares are generally made of silk or polyester instead of cotton and are inserted into the top pocket of the suit jacket to add a splash of color and distinction to your look.

It makes sense to have several fabrics in your collection of pocket squares – cotton, linen and silk – since this will allow you to produce different effects depending on the fabric of your jacket, your tie or bow tie.

Do not match your pocket square too closely with your tie; that looks like an attempt at a uniform. It’s acceptable and even effective for your square’s design to subtlety echo colors or shades in your tie.

There are many different formal folds for a pocket square, some of them very elaborate. It makes sense to master two or three of them; and the most complex folds can certainly look as though you are trying too hard. Here are five of the more common and more useful folds:

  • The Presidential fold – the easiest to do. Just fold the square at right angles (put it on a flat surface, fold in half, fold again to produce the square) and place in your pocket.
  • TV fold – Fold a handkerchief into quarters, fold the resulting square into thirds, and bring the bottom edge three-quarters of the way up. Tuck it into the pocket, unfolded side out and with an inch of fabric visible.
  • One-point fold – simple, has a pointed end showing. Lay the handkerchief flat, bring one corner to its diagonal opposite to create a triangle, then the left corner of the triangle to the right corner, and the right corner to the left corner. You should end up with a long rectangle with a point at the top. Fold the bottom part-way towards the top and place it in your suit.
  • Two-point fold – features a folded off-centre point. Lay the handkerchief flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down. Fold the bottom corner up and just to the left of the top corner. Fold the left side in towards the right and then the right side in towards the left. Place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.
  • Three-point fold – a variation with three points visible. Lay the handkerchief flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down. Fold the bottom corner up and just to the left of the top corner. Fold the left side in towards the right and up to the right of the middle peak. Fold the right side straight across in to the left. Place it in your pocket.

Never use a regular handkerchief as a pocket square – it simply won’t look as good. And do remember, if you give it to someone, don’t ask for it to be returned. That is a gentleman’s rule!