Men’s Suit History: Referencing the 1940s

Each era of men’s suits ushers in a new, distinct style with its own unique silhouette, details and fashions.

One of our favorites from days past is the boxy, roomy suits of the 1940s. Darker colors – navy, dark grey, brown – gave wartime fashion a somber tone and artificial fibers including rayon and viscose were often employed in place of requisitioned wool.

The golden age of Hollywood, the days when men were men and boys went off to war.

Stars like Humphrey Bogart and Cary Grant dominated the Silver Screen, dressed in dapper duds with impeccable tailoring and smart detailing including Milanese buttonholes and pocket squares.

The illicit zoot suit rebelled against the rationing of wool.

Known for its double breasted and overly long coats, wide lapels, shoulder padding and baggy pants that tapered toward the ankle, the zoot suit was considered a war time extravagance. It played a central role in what became known as the 1943 Zoot Suit Riots in Los Angeles, where servicemen lashed out at local youths, in part because of what was perceived as an excessive and therefore unpatriotic use of fabric.

The zoot suit, however, set the stage for the post war late 1940s when big style returned along with the boys from war.

Wide lapels, spread collars and pleated pants worn higher on the waist set the trend. Suits with lots of fabric dominated until the end of the decade.

1940s men’s suits are referenced today especially with the revival of the vest (also known as a waist coat), the Fedora and detailing. Ask a bespoke advisor how you can create your own 1940s-inspired but modern men’s suit.