Overcoats

Men’s overcoat are a versatile garment (and an essential one for the modern man’s wardrobe) that is both functional and stylish. A well-fitted classic overcoat is a smart investment that will last you for years; and every time you put it on, you’ll instantly step up your style.

By tradition, an overcoat is a heavy coat worn over ordinary clothing in cold or rainy weather – typically worn over a man’s suit or casual business wear, for work or special occasions.

The very best overcoats will be made for you by a good tailor. You’re always guaranteed a perfect fit and you will probably get a fabric superior to that of a ready-made overcoat. But you can still purchase a fine quality overcoat straight off the rack – if you know what to look for.

Overcoat length. You can choose between a full-length and a three-quarter length. A full-length overcoat should fall around the lower level of your shins, which is perfect for those colder winter days. On the other hand, the lower parts might get dirtier or wetter once the snow starts to melt.

The full-length overcoat usually looks dressier than a three-quarter length one. They also tend to suit taller men, for a longer overcoat can make a shorter man look stockier and shorter than they really are.

A three-quarter length overcoat should fall anywhere between the lower part of your knee and the lower part of your trousers’ pockets. This is definitely a younger, more fashionable choice.

Single or double-breasted overcoats. The double-breasted overcoat usually presents a double row of buttons – with four or six buttons in total – and a single row of buttonholes. To fasten a double-breasted overcoat, you lap one edge of the front well over the other.

Some double-breasted overcoats come with matching belts, which you can tie around your waist or just let hang. These look best on traditional military style overcoats.

The single-breasted overcoat closes with a narrow overlap and fastens down in front with a single row of buttons. You’ll normally find three or four-button single-breasted overcoats.

A single-breasted overcoat is a more versatile garment; you can wear it with single- or double-breasted suits (a double-breasted overcoat over a double-breasted suit is just too many buttons) and it is more likely to stay in fashion (double-breasted overcoats seem to go in and out of fashion quickly).

A single-breasted overcoat is also more practical as it can be worn open and doesn’t always need to be buttoned up. A well-tailored single-breasted overcoat also provides a more slimming appearance.

Overcoat fabrics. If you plan to wear your overcoat for years, make sure you buy a coat that is made of 100% wool. In general, heavier coats last longer because the fabric is more durable.

Cashmere wool is by far the most popular fabric used for overcoats – and deservedly so, for it is both extremely warm and very good-looking. It also drapes well over the body. But cashmere is a relatively delicate fabric and a men’s overcoat in pure cashmere will show wear on the cuffs and the collar. Moths love cashmere, too.

Modern wool finishing produces fabrics that can be as soft as all but the finest cashmere. You might find that the best compromise between looks and durability is a wool cashmere blend – anything more than 10% cashmere will have noticeable benefits in terms of softness and drape.

Overcoat cut. When you go to buy a man’s overcoat, make sure to wear a shirt and a jacket – the overcoat will have to fit on top of them.

Make sure your overcoat fits squarely around your shoulders and waist. Pronounced shoulder pads and very square shoulders are definitely out of style; a softer look is generally preferable.

Some men like a looser fit, younger men often prefer a trimmer style. However, if you see X-style creases across the torso when buttoning your overcoat, it is definitely too tight.

Overcoat pockets. Pockets are always practical whether they’re at the waist, hip or chest level. They should be lined, of course, and they should be able to accommodate whatever you need to carry without affecting the line or the hang of the overcoat.

A Poacher’s pocket will be found on some overcoats; this is a large inside pocket at hip height that can accommodate say a newspaper or an iPad.

Overcoat sleeves. The overcoat sleeves should completely cover the sleeves of your suit as well as the shirt cuff. This way, you should not get cold on your wrists when you wear gloves with it.

Overcoat linings. Linings are often satin, typically in a manmade fibre blend for durability. The warmest linings are quilted.

You can always find great looking men’s overcoats that have a removable lining, which is a very practical option. Zip in the lining for colder weather, and simply zip it off once the temperature warms up.

Overcoat construction. The best-quality overcoats have a sewn canvas (the lining of the coat), whereas less expensive overcoats have a fused (or glued) canvas. A sewn canvas is definitely more durable and built to last; that means the overcoat will keep its shape for longer. A sewn canvas will also adapt to the wearer, so the more you wear the overcoat the better it will look.

A cheaper interlining can come loose after a few years, ruining the shape of the garment. Unlike with a suit, however, an overcoat with glued or fused canvassing is still acceptable – the overcoat is cut looser, so the shape is not quite so important; and you wear it less frequently, so the durability is not so much of an issue.