There are various kinds of men’s suit styles available. The three key tailored cuts are usually described as American, British and Italian.
• American: The American-style suit was originally created to accommodate for the larger frames that many Americans sport compared to the slimmer build associated with European men. The American style is still the way for the larger man to go. The style typically involves flat-front trousers (pleats can exaggerate any bulk in the lower torso) and the single-breasted three-button jacket – particularly when the top button is left undone, the three-button style elongates the body of a heavy-set man and helps to make him appear taller and thinner.
• British: The British style for men’s suits derives from military uniforms. As with a uniform, the shape of the suit follows the line of the body quite closely and puts emphasis on the chest. Jackets have a long shape, often with a slightly nipped waist and flared skirt. As a result this style is most flattering on the more athletic body type, especially if you are quite tall; for the taller man, the longer length of the jacket will keep a sense of proportion to your body.
• British: The Italian (or Continental, or European) style is characterized by a slim, clean silhouette. So the men’s suit jacket – usually single-breasted with two buttons – has a close cut, severe shoulders, a shorter length to the jacket, no back vent, and small, high armholes. Trousers are flat-fronted, slim-cut trousers and have a lower rise than most. The result is a good choice for smaller and slimmer men, but can make some men look like small boys – and the Italian style is definitely wrong for any man on the bulky side. Equally, avoid the Italian cut if you have a very slim build; you need a suit that adds a bit of bulk, otherwise you’ll end up looking like a rail.