Functioning buttons
on a suit jacket sleeve are known as surgeon’s cuffs.
The idea dates back to the 19th century when Saville Row was still dominated by surgeons before the tailors took over. The working buttons, which mimic the pips of military rank once found on military uniform jacket sleeves, allowed the jacket sleeves to be rolled up. This was presumably so surgeons could attend patients without having to remove their coats. Whatever the exact origin, the idea was later adopted by the swankiest of the Saville Row tailors as a mark of the highest quality bespoke suits.
Surgeon’s cuffs continue today to signal a quality custom-made suit and in modern times has evolved to include contrast buttonhole stitching. In some cases, the last button (closest to the cuff) is left undone in what the Italians might call sprezzatura and what others might label showing off.
We like surgeon’s cuffs because, similar to pick stitching, they are a stylistic and aesthetic flourish that lets you personalize and customize your suit.
The first rule of Knot Standard is fit and the second rule is make it your own. Whether you’re choosing a dark blue windowpane for the office, a charcoal grey morning coat or a dapper Bond-link tuxedo, our suits are made to be yours and the best way to achieve this is to leave the details up to you.
Ask a Knot Standard advisor about surgeon’s cuffs along with our many other customization options.