The modern man’s tie
was designed back in the 19th century – and it has never really gone out of style since.
Before the 1920s, ties were made from a single piece of cloth and cut with a 45 degree bias across the material. Then in 1920 an innovation was patented by Jessie Langsdorf; the necktie could be made from three parts that are sewn together, the style that is now more or less universal for better-quality ties (a cheaper tie will be made from only two pieces of fabric).
The best-quality ties also have a hand-rolled and hand-stitched hem, which keeps a better shape than a machine-rolled hem. Look also for a slip stitch, which can be pulled to gather the tie together and helps to maintain its shape.
Check whether the tie is lined.
The lining, if it is there, should be wool; its role to make tying the necktie easier, especially to produce a neat knot, and to prevent the tie from wrinkling.
Silk is probably the ideal fabric for a man’s tie.
True silk will feel smooth between the fingers. Other fabrics that mimic silk will usually feel more brittle and slightly rougher.
Choose a tie that grazes the top of your belt buckle and measures between 2¼ and 4 inches wide. For the most classic look, go for a tie that matches the width of your jacket lapel.