Your Suiting Guide
The Modern Suit
Built to be the full expression of your creativity and personal style, a Modern Suit is a lot like music–we can read the same notes, but we’re all going to play them differently. This style of suiting is not for the timid, and cannot be worn halfway–to wear a Modern Suit well, you need to commit before you put it on.
This is also an excellent opportunity to experiment with new customizations and details. Try a double-breasted jacket with a peak lapel, or go for a fabric a few shades brighter than you normally would. Give new textures and patterns a try; build it in a slightly slimmer fit to call more attention to your silhouette. Your accessories, your shoes, your tie (if you want one) all need to work beautifully together and add to the overall impression you are making, as well. To summarize: express yourself, and push your style forward a little, too. Your Style Advisor will be more than happy to help you consider options you haven’t even thought of yet.
While a “Modern Suit” can take countless shapes, informed by location, profession, body type, and personality, let’s discuss a few elements that can come together to achieve an enviably bold style.
Wide Peak Lapel
While many men’s suits would have you believe there is only one general lapel size, it is actually a critical element of creating a suit that looks proportional and well-fitted for your body shape and size, as well as your face. Beyond this, though, lapel width becomes a stylistic choice–certain widths are forever connected to specific eras, but you can make subtle adjustments to create a bolder, wider lapel that adds to a more unique look, or choose a slimmer lapel width for a clean, modern, sleek approach.
There are many types of shoulders on a suit, and the roped shoulder is definitely one that will get noticed. Created by having a very minimally padded area between the neck and shoulder point, the sleeve’s armhole is then cut slightly larger than the armhole of the jacket–this excess fabric is then meticulously rolled over the armhole to create a prominent suit shoulder that, while taking out some excess padding, nonetheless creates the appearance of a broad, structural shoulder.
6-Button Double-Breasted Jacket
A bold jacket style with an interesting past that has come full circle. Originally inspired by the similarly double-breasted “reefer” peacoats worn in the American and European navies, it quickly became a preferred casual style for countryside outings and casual events. This may come as a surprise to those who consider it a more rigidly formal or stuffy look than the far more accepted single-breasted jacket. While they were initially frowned upon for office attire or more serious gatherings, the double-breasted jacket has come to be widely accepted as a stylish choice for men who enjoy a bold, eye-catching option. You can thank the Duke of Windsor (6-button) and the Duke of Kent (4-button) for popularizing this style. Just don’t wear it unbuttoned.
2 Besom Pockets
The most formal pocket style, a besom (or jetted) pocket appears simply as a slit along the jacket, imparting a look of clean, minimal sophistication. You will most commonly see this pocket style on tuxedo jackets and other black tie or formal wear. It is simply a straight pocket that has no flap, reinforced with welts at either end. While typically used for formal outfits, it can become a smart style choice for your Modern Suit, particularly if you want the pockets to take a graceful back seat.
This is a selection that comes down to preference and style instinct–go with the color, texture, pattern, and fabric composition that best reflect your taste. To really push into the realm of a Modern Suit, however, the fabric you choose should be something a little unexpected. Move away from what you would commonly see on a business-forward Classic Suit, for instance.
Our Favorite Modern Suit Styles