Jackets typically can be constructed in one of three ways: full, fused or half canvassed. Understanding the difference between the three and the effect it has on the look and quality of your jacket is helpful when choosing suits.
Traditionally, jackets were fully canvassed. This meant that the suit jacket was comprised of three layers: the outer shell fabric, an inner lining and in between, a canvas usually made of horsehair or wool or both. The canvass is stitched to the fabric and provides a foundation and structure for the jacket, helping it to drape properly and to hold its shape. Over time and wear, the jacket will conform to the wearer’s body, adding to the bespoke look and fit. Fully canvassed suits are often quite expensive and for lighter summer fabrics can make the jacket heavier than it need be.
In a fused jacket, the canvas is glued to the outer shell of fabric. Many high end men’s clothier’s use this technique, which is cost effective, and modern technology has eliminated most of the problems like bubbling once associated with fused jackets. The fusing, does, however, create a slightly stiffer look that does not drape as naturally and will not over time and wear fit the wearer better.
The half canvassed jacket combines the best of both worlds. The canvass is stitched through the chest and lapel sections and then fused through the rest. This allows a more attainable price point while at the same time constructing a jacket with natural drape and longer lifespan. Check out our Madison Sky Blue Glen Plaid for the perfect lightweight summer suit. The half canvassed jacket features a solid steel blue lining and our hand stitched Milanese buttonhole on the lapel.