Jackets

The jacket of a man’s suit is the most dominating component of a suit, and it should be worn to suit the occasion or event you are attending.

The basic requirement of the jacket is that it should have well-made shoulders, resting on the perfect spot. The sleeve should end over the wearer’s wrist, allowing some space (ideally half an inch or a quarter) to reveal the shirt cuff.

Most suit jackets have one, two or three fastening buttons, with two the norm. Taller men should go for three buttons because it gives their body a proportionate look.

Men’s suit jacket sleeves have between two and six cuff buttons, with four the norm. These should match the look of the waist buttons but will be a smaller size. Most cuff buttons are decorative and non-functional; if they can be unfastened to open the cuff, you are probably looking at a bespoke or high-grade made-to-measure man’s suit.

There are variations when it comes to the pockets of the jacket. Jetted pockets are sewn into the inner lining of the jacket, appearing like a slim horizontal opening on either side, which gives the wearer a look of sophistication. Jetted pockets are common on men’s formal wear. Patch pockets, by contrast, are quite informal and are frequently found on summer suits – these are made by stitching a patch of material on to the surface of the jacket with an opening at the top. Flap pockets are essentially jetted pockets with the addition of a protective flap that is patched above the pocket opening to cover it and protect the contents of the pocket.

The breast pocket of the jacket is always open for the placement of the handkerchief or pocket square.

Inside pockets are generally positioned on the left, although they may be there on either or both sides of the suit jacket. Make sure that the object you are carrying in these pockets is not too heavy, as it will spoil the original line of the suit jacket.